CN108635247B - 含透明质酸钠的化妆品用组合物 - Google Patents
含透明质酸钠的化妆品用组合物 Download PDFInfo
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- CN108635247B CN108635247B CN201810676214.9A CN201810676214A CN108635247B CN 108635247 B CN108635247 B CN 108635247B CN 201810676214 A CN201810676214 A CN 201810676214A CN 108635247 B CN108635247 B CN 108635247B
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- sodium hyaluronate
- molecular weight
- skin
- composition containing
- solubilizer
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/85—Products or compounds obtained by fermentation, e.g. yoghurt, beer, wine
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
本发明公开了一种含透明质酸钠的化妆品组合物。其按质量百分比计算,含有3.0‑15.0%的透明质酸钠、71.0‑91.0%的多元醇、5.0‑12.0%的肤感调节及促渗剂和1.0‑3.0%的增溶剂;其中,所述的透明质酸钠由分子量为80‑100万道尔顿的中分子透明质酸钠、分子量为20‑40万道尔顿的小分子透明质酸钠和分子量为8000道尔顿的水解透明质酸钠组成。本发明用于化妆品中,表现出长时间的保湿特性,能让透明质酸钠的保湿效果得到最大化,很好地解决了透明质酸钠的粘腻感,并且能获得优异的肤感。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于日用化学工业技术领域,具体涉及一种含透明质酸钠的化妆品用组合物。
背景技术
透明质酸钠作为一种化妆品生产原料,目前已被大家认知具有保湿功效,并且认同对不同分子量的透明质酸钠进行复配使用时,在得到更好的保湿效果的同时,还兼具抗衰老、皮肤修复等功能。目前,市场上的透明质酸钠类保湿化妆品多采用分子量为180万道尔顿-220万道尔顿的大分子透明质酸钠,以及分子量为130万道尔顿-150万道尔顿的中分子量透明质酸钠。对于高分子量透明质酸钠,只能通过在皮肤表层形成一层透明的水化膜,阻止皮肤内部水分蒸发从而达到保湿的目的,但是,使用的透明质酸钠分子量越高,皮肤水分含量反而越低,并且加量少形成的膜不够厚,达不到防止皮肤内部水分蒸发的效果;此外,由于大分子透明质酸钠高粘度的特性,加量高则会使化妆品在涂抹时产生粘腻感,不易被皮肤快速吸收,带来明显的不适感,干后形成的膜也硬而体感不舒服。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种含透明质酸钠的化妆品用组合物,能有效解决现有技术的不足之处。
为达到上述目的,本发明采用如下技术方案:
含透明质酸钠的化妆品组合物,按质量百分比计算,含有3.0-15.0%的透明质酸钠、70.0-91.0%的多元醇、5.0-12.0%的肤感调节及促渗剂和1.0-3.0%的增溶剂;其中,所述的透明质酸钠由分子量为80-100万道尔顿的中分子透明质酸钠、分子量为20-40万道尔顿的小分子透明质酸钠和分子量为8000道尔顿的水解透明质酸钠组成。
作为优选,所述透明质酸钠的含量为5.0-13.0%。
作为优选,所述中分子透明质酸钠的含量为2.0-4.5%,所述小分子透明质酸钠的含量为2.0-4.5%,所述水解透明质酸钠的含量为1.0-4.0%。
作为优选,所述中分子透明质酸钠、小分子透明质酸钠和水解透明质酸钠均采用微生物发酵法制备,所述微生物发酵法包括酶切法。
作为优选,所述酶切法中所采用的透明质酸酶为由芽孢杆菌A50CGMCC NO.5744发酵培养得到的芽孢杆菌透明质酸酶。
作为优选,所述的多元醇为甘油、丁二醇、1,3-丙二醇、二丙二醇中的任一种或它们至少两种的混合物;所述多元醇的含量为74.0-88.0%。
作为优选,所述的肤感调节及促渗剂为天冬氨酸镁、葡糖酸锌、葡糖酸铜、泛酸钙中的任一种或它们至少两种的混合物;所述肤感调节及促渗剂的含量为5.0-10.0%。
作为优选,所述的增溶剂为PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油、PPG-26-丁醇聚醚-26、聚山梨醇酯-20中的任一种或它们至少两种的混合物;所述增溶剂的含量为2.0-3.0%。
本发明用于化妆品中,表现出长时间的保湿特性,能让透明质酸钠的保湿效果得到最大化,很好地解决了透明质酸钠的粘腻感,并且能获得优异的肤感。
具体实施方式
本发明所述的含透明质酸钠的化妆品用组合物,按质量百分比计算,含有3.0-15.0%的透明质酸钠、70.0-91.0%的多元醇、5.0-12.0%的肤感调节及促渗剂和1.0-3.0%的增溶剂;其中,所述的透明质酸钠由分子量为80-100万道尔顿的中分子透明质酸钠、分子量为20-40万道尔顿的小分子透明质酸钠和分子量为8000道尔顿的水解透明质酸钠组成。
所述的中分子透明质酸钠、小分子透明质酸钠和水解透明质酸钠,均采用微生物发酵法生产制得,如酶切法。所述的酶切法是以芽孢杆菌(Bacillus sp.)A50CGMCCNO.5744发酵培养得到的芽孢杆菌透明质酸酶对透明质酸或其盐进行降解,工序包括配制透明质酸或其盐溶液、酶解、灭活、过滤、沉淀、脱水干燥等步骤。经酶切法得到的透明质酸钠具有透皮吸收性好、纯度高、无细胞毒性、抗氧化能力强、不会发生褐变等优点。在本发明实施例中,选用的是华熙福瑞达生物医药有限公司生产的透明质酸钠产品。在本发明中,透明质酸钠的优选使用量为5.0%-13.0%。其中,中分子透明质酸钠的使用量为2.0%-4.5%;小分子透明质酸钠的使用量为2.0%-4.5%;水解透明质酸钠的使用量为1.0%-4.0%。
所述的多元醇为甘油、丁二醇、1,3-丙二醇、二丙二醇中的任一种或它们至少两种的混合物。本发明中,多元醇优选使用量为74.0%-88.0%。
所述的肤感调节及促渗剂为天冬氨酸镁、葡糖酸锌、葡糖酸铜、泛酸钙中的任一种或它们至少两种的混合物。对于天冬氨酸镁、葡糖酸锌、葡糖酸铜,可以采用赛比克公司的“SEPITONIC M3”产品;对于泛酸钙,可以采用DSM公司的“Calcium D-Pantohenate”产品。本发明中,肤感调节及促渗剂类的优选使用量为5.0%-10.0%。
所述的增溶剂为PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油、PPG-26-丁醇聚醚-26、聚山梨醇酯-20中的任一种或它们至少两种的混合物。对于PEG-40氢化蓖麻油,可以采用BASF公司的“Cremophor RH40增溶剂”;对于PEG-60氢化蓖麻油,可以采用BASF公司的“Cremophor RH60增溶剂”。本发明中,增溶剂的优选使用量为2.0%-3.0%。
实施例
以下各成分均按质量百分比计算。
序号 | 成份 | 实施例1 | 实施例2 | 实施例3 | 实施例4 | 实施例5 |
1 | 中分子透明质酸钠 | 1.0 | 2.0 | 4.0 | 4.5 | 5.0 |
2 | 小分子透明质酸钠 | 1.0 | 2.0 | 4.0 | 4.5 | 5.0 |
3 | 水解分子透明质酸钠 | 1.0 | 1.0 | 2.0 | 4.0 | 5.0 |
4 | 甘油 | 91.0 | 88.0 | 78.0 | 74.0 | 70.0 |
5 | 增溶剂 | 1.0 | 2.0 | 2.0 | 3.0 | 3.0 |
6 | 肤感调节及促渗剂 | 5.0 | 5.0 | 10.0 | 10.0 | 12.0 |
上述实施例组合物的制备工艺如下:
将中分子透明质酸钠、小分子透明质酸钠、水解分子透明质酸钠和甘油混合后,利用搅拌机搅拌,转速控制在60转/分钟,充分搅拌20分钟使其完全均匀,然后加入增溶剂,加热至60℃,使增溶剂完全溶解,冷却至45℃,加入肤感调节及促渗剂,搅拌均匀,得到本发明的含透明质酸钠的化妆品用组合物。
上述的中分子透明质酸钠为华熙福瑞达生物医药有限公司的的HA-TLM透明质酸钠;小分子透明质酸钠为华熙福瑞达生物医药有限公司的HA-TLM20-40透明质酸钠;水解透明质酸钠为华熙福瑞达生物医药有限公司的纳诺HA酶切寡聚透明质酸钠,均可由华熙福瑞达生物医药有限公司购得。肤感调节及促渗剂采用赛比克公的SEPITONIC M3产品,可由百好博公司购得。增溶剂采用BASF公司的Cremophor RH60增溶剂,可由广州市龙慧贸易有限公司购得。
本发明所使用的中分子透明质酸钠分子量为80-100万道尔顿,小分子透明质酸钠分子量为20-40万道尔顿,加量可以比120万道尔顿以上分子量的透明质酸钠加量高,同样可以在皮肤表面形成一层透明的水化膜、阻止皮肤内部水分蒸发的同时,不存在120万道尔顿以上分子量透明质酸钠所产生的粘腻效果。水解透明质酸钠分子量为8000道尔顿,分子量小,浓度较高时也几乎没有黏度,因此可以较高浓度的添加以满足化妆品清爽的肤感;且随着水解透明质酸浓度的增加,其保湿效果持续时间增长,以及水解透明质酸钠具有最强的使皮肤水分含量增加的作用。透明质酸钠和水解透明质酸钠两者联合使用,可起到协同增效的作用,表现出更好的保湿效果。本发明还使用具有促进渗透作用的肤感调节,可以使透明质酸钠及水解透明质酸钠更好的渗透吸收,发挥更好的保湿效果。
为了改良感官性、赋予皮肤营养、防止品质劣化等,可以在不损害本发明效果的范围内,在用本发明制成的化妆品中,根据需要可适当添加除上述成分以外的一般化妆品用原料,例如:天然水溶性高分子、半合成水溶性高分子、无机水溶性高分子、紫外线吸收剂、金属离子螯合剂、低级醇、多元醇、单糖、寡糖、多糖、氨基酸、肽类、有机胺、防腐剂、pH调节剂、维生素类、植物萃取精华、抗氧化剂、抗氧化助剂、香料、水等。这些成分可以是一种或两种以上组合。
该天然的水溶性高分子可以是:***胶、黄原胶、半乳聚糖、瓜尔胶、刺槐豆胶、卡拉胶、果胶、海藻胶、淀粉、支链淀粉、胶原、明胶等。
该半合成的水溶性高分子可以是:羧甲基淀粉、甲基羟丙基淀粉、甲基纤维素、甲基羟丙基纤维素、羟丙基纤维素、羧甲基纤维素、羧甲基纤维素钠、微晶纤维素、褐藻酸钠、褐藻酸丙二醇酯等。
该无机水溶性高分子可以是:膨润土、硅酸铝镁、硅酸镁锂、蒙脱石等。
该紫外线吸收剂可以是:对氨基苯甲酸单甘油酯等对氨基苯甲酸系列、薄荷醇-N-S十六烷基邻氨基苯甲酸酯等邻氨基苯甲酸系列、水杨酸辛酯等水杨酸系列、肉桂酸辛酯等肉桂酸系列、4-羟基-3-羧基二苯甲酮等二苯酮系列等。紫外线吸收剂可以单独使用也可以两种以上组合使用。
该金属离子螯合剂可以是:EDTA二钠、EDTA四钠等。
该低级醇可以是:乙醇、异丙醇等。
该多元醇可以是:甘油、丙二醇、丁二醇、山梨醇等。
该单糖例可以是:D-甘油醛等丙糖、D-赤藓糖等丁糖、D-***糖等戊糖、D-葡萄糖等己糖、戊醛糖等庚糖、6-脱氧-L-半乳糖等脱氧糖、D-葡糖胺等氨基糖、D-半乳糖醛酸等糖醛酸等。
该寡糖可以是:乳糖、棉籽糖、车前糖等。
该多糖可以是:硫酸软骨素、壳聚糖、半乳聚糖等。
该氨基酸可以是苏氨酸等中性氨基酸、巯基赖氨酸等碱性氨基酸、谷胱甘肽等氨基酸衍生物等。
该肽类可以是:二肽二氨基丁酰苄基酰胺二乙酸盐、棕榈酰五肽-4、燕麦(AVENASATIVA)肽、乙酰基八肽-3、肌肽、谷胱甘肽、二肽-2、棕榈酰四肽-7、棕榈酰寡肽、棕榈酰三肽-1等。
该有机胺可以是:单乙醇胺、三乙醇胺、2-氨基-2-甲基-1,3-丙二醇等。
该防腐剂可以是:羟苯甲酯、苯氧乙醇、重氮咪唑烷基脲、碘代丙炔醇丁基甲胺酸酯、氯苯甘醚、苯甲酸钠等。
该pH调节剂可以是:氢氧化钠、三乙醇胺、柠檬酸等。
该维生素类可以是:维生素A、维生素C、维生素E、泛酸、维生素B3以及他们的衍生物等。
该植物萃取精华可以是:芦荟、金缕梅、黄瓜、柠檬、薰衣草、玫瑰等。
该抗氧化剂可以是:生育酚类、二丁基羟基甲苯、丁基羟基茴香醚、没食子酸酯类等。
该抗氧化剂助剂可以是:磷酸、马来酸、丙二酸、植酸、EDTA等。
应用实施例
采用本发明所述的含透明质酸钠的化妆品用组合物制备保湿精华液,其配方(以下各成分均按质量百分比计算)如下:
上述保湿精华液的制备工艺如下:
1、将去离子水加入水锅,升温至80℃,保温搅拌20分钟。
2、然后冷却,降温至60℃,加入本发明组合物,搅拌至组合物完全溶解;
3、继续冷却,降温至45℃,加入香精和防腐剂,搅拌30分钟后,送检,合格后出料。
为了证明本发明的长效保湿及优异的肤感,本应用实施例进行了以下的测试:
按照实施例1至5的配方制备出透明质酸钠保湿精华液,作为实验用制剂,并分别命名为样品1、样品2、样品3、样品4和样品5;另外制备不含SEPITONIC M3和Cremophor RH60增溶剂的透明质酸钠保湿精华液,作为实验用制剂,并命名为对照品1、对照品2、对照3、对照4和对照品5;再制备不含本发明组合物的保湿精华液,作为实验用制剂,命名为空白组。具体做法是:
一、保湿效果测试:
选择6组受试者,年龄在23-35岁的女性作为试用对象。受试者在恒温恒湿(温度(22±1)℃、湿度(50±10)%)环境中休息30min并选取合适的涂样区域,测量T0(使用产品前)时的初数据,按照随机表在其双前臂对已选取的区域进行涂样,按(2.0±0.1)mg/cm2测试样品的用量进行单次涂抹,整个试验过程均在恒温恒湿环境中进行,并分别在涂抹产品后T30min,T60min,T120min和T240min对受试部位进行无创性仪器测定、测量皮肤角质层水合含量,经皮水份流失率并记录。
1、皮肤角质层水合量分析(CAP)的测量,采用的设备是MOISTUREMETERSC MSC1212(DELFIN)。临床使用OISTUREMETERSC MOISTUREMETERSC测定手臂皮肤角质层水合含水量。数值越高,表示皮肤角质层水合程度越高,表明产品的保湿效果越好。
2、皮肤经皮水份流失分析(TEWL)的测量,使用的设备是TAPOETER SWL5167(DELFIN)。临床使用TAPOMETER测定手臂经皮失水率。数值越小,表示皮肤屏障越好,表明产品的锁水效果越好。
表1:皮肤角质层水合含量
表2:经皮水分流失率
在优选的实施方案中,相对于空白组处理的皮肤,用样品后T30min,T60min,T120min,T240min与基线值(T0)对比,皮肤角质层水合含量明显增加,经皮水分流失明显减少;相对于对照组处理的皮肤,皮肤角质层水合含量也明显增加。本发明也对皮肤提供相对更长时间保湿作用的增加和其他的有益效果,例如,长达8、12和24小时,没有现有制剂的缺点例如粘腻感或者不够丝滑柔软的感觉。
结果证明了实施例1-5代表的本发明优选的实施方案提供优异的皮肤保湿特性,30分钟和1小时后,皮肤的保湿效果有明显的改善,远远好于对照例和空白样品的结果。该结果提示本发明组合物提供了令人惊奇和预想不到的协同保湿效果,因为其中组分单个使用或者不添加肤感调节及促渗剂类以及增溶剂类都达不到最佳效果。
二、肤感测试:
选择25组受试者,年龄在23-55岁的女性作为试用对象。受试者根据使用效果,对测试产品的各项指标进行打分,按照喜欢程度依次打分:5分非常喜欢,4分比较喜欢,3分一般,2分比较不喜欢,1分不喜欢,5分为满意度最高值。
从测试结果来看,实施例1-5代表的本发明优选的实施方案改善了透明质酸钠的粘腻感、吸收性、丝滑感及柔软感,带来优异的肤感,更被消费者喜爱。
Claims (3)
1.含透明质酸钠的化妆品组合物,其特征在于,按质量百分比计算,含有5.0-13.0%的透明质酸钠、74.0-88.0%的多元醇、5.0-10.0%的肤感调节及促渗剂和2.0-3.0%的增溶剂;其中,所述的透明质酸钠由分子量为80-100万道尔顿的中分子透明质酸钠、分子量为20-40万道尔顿的小分子透明质酸钠和分子量为8000道尔顿的水解透明质酸钠组成;
所述中分子透明质酸钠的含量为2.0-4.5%,所述小分子透明质酸钠的含量为2.0-4.5%,所述水解透明质酸钠的含量为1.0-4.0%;
所述的多元醇为甘油;
所述的肤感调节及促渗剂为SEPITONIC M3;
所述的增溶剂为 Cremophor RH60 增溶剂。
2.根据权利要求1所述的含透明质酸钠的化妆品组合物,其特征在于,所述中分子透明质酸钠、小分子透明质酸钠和水解透明质酸钠均采用微生物发酵法制备,所述微生物发酵法包括酶切法。
3.根据权利要求2所述的含透明质酸钠的化妆品组合物,其特征在于,所述酶切法中所采用的透明质酸酶为由芽孢杆菌A50 CGMCC NO.5744发酵培养得到的芽孢杆菌透明质酸酶。
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