CN104630967A - Hand feeling finishing method for denim fabric - Google Patents
Hand feeling finishing method for denim fabric Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN104630967A CN104630967A CN201310553994.5A CN201310553994A CN104630967A CN 104630967 A CN104630967 A CN 104630967A CN 201310553994 A CN201310553994 A CN 201310553994A CN 104630967 A CN104630967 A CN 104630967A
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- denim
- feel
- fabric
- denim fabric
- hand feeling
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B7/00—Mercerising, e.g. lustring by mercerising
- D06B7/08—Mercerising, e.g. lustring by mercerising of fabrics of indefinite length
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C15/00—Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C19/00—Breaking or softening of fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C9/00—Singeing
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/77—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with silicon or compounds thereof
- D06M11/78—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with silicon or compounds thereof with silicon; with halides or oxyhalides of silicon; with fluorosilicates
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/643—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to a hand feeling finishing method for denim fabric. The hand feeling finishing method for the denim fabric specifically comprises the following steps that 1, the hand feeling is designed according to the change of the weave specifications of yarn and fabric of the denim fabric; 2, mercerized finishing is conducted so as to improve the hand feeling of the denim fabric; 3, the mechanical hand feeling of the denim fabric is finished; 4, the chemical hand feeling of the denim fabric is finished, wherein the denim fabric or jeans garments are processed by means of chemicals through rolling, pressing, spraying, coating, washing and the like, so that the required hand feeling is obtained. By the adoption of the hand feeling finishing method for the denim fabric, soft and skin-friendly denim fabric can be obtained, and the basic characteristics of the denim fabric are reserved. Through hand feeling finishing, the quality of low-grade cloth can be improved, the value of medium-grade and high-grade cloth can be better increased, and a special effect is effectively achieved for the denim fabric.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of hand feel finishing method of denim, belong to denim technical field.
Background technology
The jeans that " look like cowboy; touch up feel very good " in the market or " look like Casual Style; and to carefully analyze be produce differentiation from cowboy " clothes get more and more, feel or comfortableness require to seem more and more important in denim is produced, they are by the fashion trend designed and various manufacturing process makes jean, jeans meet comfortable leisure, equally also have jeans distinctive " being full of the performance look of glamour ".
The hand feel finishing of denim be exactly produce at denim raw material, yarn, fabric texture, fabric finishing, clothes aft-loaded airfoil (wash water) process in, by methods such as design, physics, chemistry, machineries, jean or jeans are allowed to reach the handle effect met at that time required by fashion trend; In former traditional denim, stiffening, rough, brutal is the essential characteristic requirement of its handle effect, even thought at that time produce jeans can " naturally standing on ground " be best cowboy's effect, low count yarn, high density, beat again latitude, hard finishing be traditional denim production inevitable requirement; Current, the wind of " leisure, comfortable, random " is prevailing, soft feel, the dress of comfortable environment-protection, fine and smooth style, release pressure, personalized feature ... become main flow, cowboy's product is more a feast for the eyes, of a great variety, wherein soft and have the feel of pro-skin sense, the product not losing again the essential characteristic of cowboy becomes an important subject direction; Hand feel finishing can improve the quality of low side cloth, more can promote the value of medium-to-high grade cloth.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of hand feel finishing method of denim, to carry out Final finishing for denim better, obtain good feel.
To achieve these goals, technical scheme of the present invention is as follows:
A hand feel finishing method for denim, specifically comprises the following steps:
(1) feel is designed from the change of denim yarn, fabric tissue specification:
The rise of ring spinning is exactly the beginning of denim soft feel, due to the difference of yarn texture, under homologue's specification conditions, the fabric that the fabric that ring spinning is produced is produced compared with open-end spinning is more soft, feel is better, at present, greatly particularly Top Grade Jean cloth adopts denim is ring spinning, there is greatly Siro-spun yarn to replace the trend of common ring ingot spinning in low count yarn field simultaneously, such denim lines is more clear, cloth cover grain effect better, does not lose good feel again; On three a bottom left (right side) tiltedly, on two once, brokentwlllweave (reticulate pattern), plain weave remain the primary texture of denim, more soft satin weave, small jacquard is organized also has application;
(2) mercerized finish is to improving denim feel:
The popular basic working procedure even becoming denim finish of denim mercerized finish is the watershed that denim soft feel is popular; The basic process of denim mercerized finish is: " denim grey cloth---bristle---singe---destarch---mercerising---preshrunk ", because denim yarn count is comparatively thick, by cotton lower grade, cloth cover filoplume, cotton knot, impurity phase are to more, this situation can be greatly improved after mercerized finish, simultaneously according to the mechanism of action of caustic soda to cotton fiber, while improving cloth cover gloss, clear cloth cover lines, substantially improve the feel of denim, wherein " destarch, mercerising, preshrunk " three operations are maximum to denim feel improvement degree; Certainly, in actual production, work out different destarch, mercerising, preshrinking process can obtain different handle effect; Generally speaking, single two-sided singe and clean level, destarch effect, alkali concn, time, temperature, washing clean level, these factors of preshrinking process larger to feel influential effect after denim mercerising;
(3) the mechanical hand feel finishing of denim:
By method that is mechanical or physics, the material making fabric face filoplume, card nailing neps, particle protuberance etc. affect fabric feeling is removed or is put down and covers, allow soft or yarn fibers structure loose (or compact and smooth) of fabric tissue etc., thus obtain soft or special feel;
Air is patted: allow air-flow continuously act on fabric by certain requirement, contacted with the comprehensive of fiber with yarn, air-flow with fabric, air-flow by air-flow, make the institutional framework of fabric, the fibre structure of yarn changes and finely tune, thus obtaining a kind of special and good feel;
Sanding (napping, ball woll etc.): the sanding be applied on denim has carbon element sanding, diamond dust sanding and carbon element and diamond dust to combine sanding, mainly select different processing modes according to the different processing request of denim, improve feel and reach some special processing effects, in jean topical finish, the processing methods such as flocking, napping, ball woll also have application;
Calendering: denim calendering usually coordinates and uses together with coating, favourable planarization and the gloss improving top finish denim, also saving color is conducive to, in general, by high-pressure roller fabric to be pressurizeed (padding machine pressure is more than 30 tons) or with the roll roll compacting fabric of heating, natively very thin fabric can be extruded to greatest extent, squeeze away the air in fabric (even fiber), put down completely and cover fabric, form very special feel, calender coordinates with roll compacting roller with different flower pattern rollers, roll compacting different flower pattern cowboys can be gone out on denim,
" beating cold wind " after clothes wash water: in fact aft-loaded airfoil (wash water) process of jeans is exactly improve the process of the appearance effect of clothes, color, feel, the change that ferment is washed, ferment grinds, stone mill, sanding, hand are wiped, crumple, monkey wash etc. all can make the feel of clothes occur in various degree, there is deliquescing, also have hardening; " beating cold wind " after clothes wash water is exactly to obtain more soft feel, jeans are after various wash water process, rotate continuously in the rotating cage of dryer (not heating), thus improve the feel of clothes, in fact, the most original " air beating " and " mechanical beating " that Here it is utilization in clothes wash water is produced;
(4) the chemical hand feel finishing of denim:
Chemicals methods such as rolling, press, spray, be coated with, wash is processed denim or jeans, thus reaches the feel of needs; Such as: what adopt softener in the groove before dryer or setting machine adds soft arrangement; The chemicals of appropriate softener or silicone oil and so on is added to obtain feel or the cloth cover effect of denim needs in the solution of the foam dewing before preshrinking machine; Also have adopt special foam finishing equipment to carry out at the bottom of denim cloth cover or cloth additive color, coating (glue) or other chemicals etc.; The softener chemicals that denim chemical softening is used in arranging usually mainly contains: fatty acid amide, fatty acid amide derivant, silicone softening agent, modified organic silicon, silicone oil, extraordinary organosilicon etc.
This beneficial effect of the invention is: adopt foregoing invention method, can obtain denim soft and have the feel of pro-skin sense, not lose again the essential characteristic of cowboy; Hand feel finishing can improve the quality of low side cloth, more can promote the value of medium-to-high grade cloth, effectively obtains denim special effect.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with embodiment, the specific embodiment of the present invention is described, better to understand the present invention.
Embodiment
A hand feel finishing method for denim, specifically comprises the following steps:
(1) feel is designed from the change of denim yarn, fabric tissue specification:
The rise of ring spinning is exactly the beginning of denim soft feel, due to the difference of yarn texture, under homologue's specification conditions, the fabric that the fabric that ring spinning is produced is produced compared with open-end spinning is more soft, feel is better, at present, greatly particularly Top Grade Jean cloth adopts denim is ring spinning, there is greatly Siro-spun yarn to replace the trend of common ring ingot spinning in low count yarn field simultaneously, such denim lines is more clear, cloth cover grain effect better, does not lose good feel again; On three a bottom left (right side) tiltedly, on two once, brokentwlllweave (reticulate pattern), plain weave remain the primary texture of denim, more soft satin weave, small jacquard is organized also has application;
(2) mercerized finish is to improving denim feel:
The popular basic working procedure even becoming denim finish of denim mercerized finish is the watershed that denim soft feel is popular; The basic process of denim mercerized finish is: " denim grey cloth---bristle---singe---destarch---mercerising---preshrunk ", because denim yarn count is comparatively thick, by cotton lower grade, cloth cover filoplume, cotton knot, impurity phase are to more, this situation can be greatly improved after mercerized finish, simultaneously according to the mechanism of action of caustic soda to cotton fiber, while improving cloth cover gloss, clear cloth cover lines, substantially improve the feel of denim, wherein " destarch, mercerising, preshrunk " three operations are maximum to denim feel improvement degree; Certainly, in actual production, work out different destarch, mercerising, preshrinking process can obtain different handle effect; Generally speaking, single two-sided singe and clean level, destarch effect, alkali concn, time, temperature, washing clean level, these factors of preshrinking process larger to feel influential effect after denim mercerising;
(3) the mechanical hand feel finishing of denim:
By method that is mechanical or physics, the material making fabric face filoplume, card nailing neps, particle protuberance etc. affect fabric feeling is removed or is put down and covers, allow soft or yarn fibers structure loose (or compact and smooth) of fabric tissue etc., thus obtain soft or special feel;
Air is patted: allow air-flow continuously act on fabric by certain requirement, contacted with the comprehensive of fiber with yarn, air-flow with fabric, air-flow by air-flow, make the institutional framework of fabric, the fibre structure of yarn changes and finely tune, thus obtaining a kind of special and good feel;
Sanding (napping, ball woll etc.): the sanding be applied on denim has carbon element sanding, diamond dust sanding and carbon element and diamond dust to combine sanding, mainly select different processing modes according to the different processing request of denim, improve feel and reach some special processing effects, in jean topical finish, the processing methods such as flocking, napping, ball woll also have application;
Calendering: denim calendering usually coordinates and uses together with coating, and favourable planarization and the gloss improving top finish denim, is also conducive to saving color; In general, by high-pressure roller, fabric pressurizeed (padding machine pressure is more than 30 tons) or with the roll roll compacting fabric heated, natively very thin fabric can be extruded to greatest extent, squeeze away the air in fabric (even fiber), put down completely and cover fabric, form very special feel; Calender coordinates with roll compacting roller with different flower pattern rollers, on denim, roll compacting can go out different flower pattern cowboys;
" beating cold wind " after clothes wash water: in fact aft-loaded airfoil (wash water) process of jeans is exactly improve the process of the appearance effect of clothes, color, feel, the change that ferment is washed, ferment grinds, stone mill, sanding, hand are wiped, crumple, monkey wash etc. all can make the feel of clothes occur in various degree, there is deliquescing, also have hardening; " beating cold wind " after clothes wash water is exactly to obtain more soft feel, jeans are after various wash water process, rotate continuously in the rotating cage of dryer (not heating), thus improve the feel of clothes, in fact, the most original " air beating " and " mechanical beating " that Here it is utilization in clothes wash water is produced;
(4) the chemical hand feel finishing of denim:
Chemicals methods such as rolling, press, spray, be coated with, wash is processed denim or jeans, thus reaches the feel of needs; Such as: what adopt softener in the groove before dryer or setting machine adds soft arrangement; The chemicals of appropriate softener or silicone oil and so on is added to obtain feel or the cloth cover effect of denim needs in the solution of the foam dewing before preshrinking machine; Also have adopt special foam finishing equipment to carry out at the bottom of denim cloth cover or cloth additive color, coating (glue) or other chemicals etc.; The softener chemicals that denim chemical softening is used in arranging usually mainly contains: fatty acid amide, fatty acid amide derivant, silicone softening agent, modified organic silicon, silicone oil, extraordinary organosilicon etc.
The above is the preferred embodiment of the present invention; it should be pointed out that for those skilled in the art, under the premise without departing from the principles of the invention; can also make some improvements and modifications, these improvements and modifications are also considered as protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (1)
1. a hand feel finishing method for denim, is characterized in that: specifically comprise the following steps:
(1) design feel from the change of denim yarn, fabric tissue specification: under homologue's specification conditions, the fabric that the fabric that ring spinning is produced is produced compared with open-end spinning is more soft, feel is better;
(2) mercerized finish is to improving denim feel: the basic process of denim mercerized finish is: " denim grey cloth---bristle---singe---destarch---mercerising---preshrunk ", work out different destarch, mercerising, preshrinking process can obtain different handle effect; Single two-sided singe and clean level, destarch effect, alkali concn, time, temperature, washing clean level, these factors of preshrinking process larger to feel influential effect after denim mercerising;
(3) the mechanical hand feel finishing of denim: by method that is mechanical or physics, the material making fabric face filoplume, card nailing neps, particle protuberance etc. affect fabric feeling is removed or is put down and covers, allow soft or yarn fibers structure loose (or compact and smooth) of fabric tissue etc., thus obtaining soft or special feel, the method for employing has " beating cold wind " after air beating, sanding (napping, ball woll etc.), calendering, clothes wash water;
(4) the chemical hand feel finishing of denim: chemicals methods such as rolling, press, spray, be coated with, wash is processed denim or jeans, thus reaches the feel of needs.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201310553994.5A CN104630967A (en) | 2013-11-11 | 2013-11-11 | Hand feeling finishing method for denim fabric |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201310553994.5A CN104630967A (en) | 2013-11-11 | 2013-11-11 | Hand feeling finishing method for denim fabric |
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| CN104630967A true CN104630967A (en) | 2015-05-20 |
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| CN201310553994.5A Pending CN104630967A (en) | 2013-11-11 | 2013-11-11 | Hand feeling finishing method for denim fabric |
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Cited By (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN106283468A (en) * | 2016-08-31 | 2017-01-04 | 佛山市立笙纺织有限公司 | A kind of coating jean washed and technique thereof |
| CN107523952A (en) * | 2017-08-23 | 2017-12-29 | 韶关市顺昌布厂有限公司 | A kind of processing method of high elastic denim |
| CN107794670A (en) * | 2017-11-04 | 2018-03-13 | 繁昌县清新水洗有限责任公司 | A kind of secondary desizing water washing technology of denim |
| CN108589137A (en) * | 2018-05-03 | 2018-09-28 | 宿州德源服装有限公司 | A kind of weaving cowboy's cloth singeing machine |
| CN108625080A (en) * | 2018-05-03 | 2018-10-09 | 宿州德源服装有限公司 | A kind of method that design on fabric surface finish is improved in process of textile production |
| CN110438700A (en) * | 2019-08-01 | 2019-11-12 | 开平奔达纺织有限公司 | One kind can exempt from ferment drift cowboy face collator and process |
| CN110923901A (en) * | 2019-12-09 | 2020-03-27 | 佛山市南海德耀纺织实业有限公司 | Warm-keeping jean fabric |
| CN112609289A (en) * | 2020-11-26 | 2021-04-06 | 泰兴市峰盛纺织有限公司 | Cotton and tencel blended dyed denim and processing technology |
-
2013
- 2013-11-11 CN CN201310553994.5A patent/CN104630967A/en active Pending
Cited By (10)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN106283468A (en) * | 2016-08-31 | 2017-01-04 | 佛山市立笙纺织有限公司 | A kind of coating jean washed and technique thereof |
| CN107523952A (en) * | 2017-08-23 | 2017-12-29 | 韶关市顺昌布厂有限公司 | A kind of processing method of high elastic denim |
| CN107794670A (en) * | 2017-11-04 | 2018-03-13 | 繁昌县清新水洗有限责任公司 | A kind of secondary desizing water washing technology of denim |
| CN108589137A (en) * | 2018-05-03 | 2018-09-28 | 宿州德源服装有限公司 | A kind of weaving cowboy's cloth singeing machine |
| CN108625080A (en) * | 2018-05-03 | 2018-10-09 | 宿州德源服装有限公司 | A kind of method that design on fabric surface finish is improved in process of textile production |
| CN108625080B (en) * | 2018-05-03 | 2021-02-26 | 浙江睿扬纺织股份有限公司 | Method for improving surface smoothness of cloth in textile production process |
| CN108589137B (en) * | 2018-05-03 | 2021-04-02 | 祁阳富福制衣有限责任公司 | Denim singeing machine for spinning |
| CN110438700A (en) * | 2019-08-01 | 2019-11-12 | 开平奔达纺织有限公司 | One kind can exempt from ferment drift cowboy face collator and process |
| CN110923901A (en) * | 2019-12-09 | 2020-03-27 | 佛山市南海德耀纺织实业有限公司 | Warm-keeping jean fabric |
| CN112609289A (en) * | 2020-11-26 | 2021-04-06 | 泰兴市峰盛纺织有限公司 | Cotton and tencel blended dyed denim and processing technology |
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Application publication date: 20150520 |