Silkworm protein fiber blended yarn, moisture absorption pendency uvioresistant fabric and spinning method and production technology
Technical field
The invention belongs to textile technology field, particularly relate to a kind of blended yarn, moisture absorption pendency uvioresistant fabric and corresponding spinning method thereof and production technology.
Background technology
Under the overall background of Global Oil resource scarcity, synthetic fiber production cost can be progressively high, and the growth of amount also can suffer restraints; Simultaneously along with growth in the living standard, people there has also been higher requirement to the comfortableness of textiles and dress ornament, the feature of environmental protection, and natural function textiles progressively becomes the market mainstream.Advocate " green " and become a kind of global consumption tide, increasing consumer orientation is in buying human health and environmentally friendly ecological safety product.The holy mulberry silkworm chrysalis azelon of the U.S. new fiber materials Company of Yibin favour, smooth as real silk with it, the soft feature like cashmere, and 18 seed amino acids that contain of pupa albumen can be moistened skin, uvioresistant, the characteristics such as environmental protection, the concern of the industry such as be subject to underwear, family is spun.The all good characteristics of holy mulberry silkworm chrysalis azelon, locate its main scope of application for contact skin product.
" Sheng Sang " silkworm protein fiber be comprehensive utilization Polymer Technology, synthetic fiber spinning technology, biotechnology, by pupa albumen and native cellulose blended after, the novel biomass fiber made.In process, adopt high-tech technique, therefore during fibre forming, albumen mass-energy is enriched in the surface of fiber, forms the protein fibre of skin-core structure.This is with the natural plant fibre of excellent animal protein+pure, make the invention of novel All Pure Nature biomass fiber, obtain national inventing patent (ZL03135631.3), be the great innovation again on world's artificial fibre invention history, started new era of fiber history.It is with pupa albumen and native cellulose for raw material, and its raw material silkworm chrysalis has stronger recyclability, can not threaten to earth resource, meets the requirement of Green Textiles.More valuable is its raw material is discarded originally after reeling silk from cocoons, and this feature is in current reserved resource, and it is very valuable for realizing sustainable development.
With the thread fabric of pupa albumen yarn, meet the following fashion trend developing direction of clothes, that is: frivolous, elegant, comfortable, be rich in texture, functional, environmental protection, health care etc.Exploitation fabric is suitable for makeing next to the skinly to wear the clothes the summers such as women's dress skirt, shirt, be intended to use the premium properties of pupa albumen staple fibre and new technology development to go out to have the woven new product of silkworm protein fiber of high-tech, top grade, high added value, to increase the kind of textiles, satisfy the demands of consumers.But lack the fabric taking into account the performances such as moisture absorption, pendency, uvioresistant, comfortable, health in the market.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of Novel rearing pupa protein fiber blended yarn.
The present invention also aims to provide a kind of moisture absorption pendency uvioresistant fabric with performances such as good moisture absorption, pendency, uvioresistant, comfortable, health.
The present invention also aims to provide a kind of spinning method manufacturing above-mentioned silkworm protein fiber blended yarn.
The present invention also aims to provide a kind of production technology utilizing described spinning method to manufacture described moisture absorption pendency uvioresistant fabric.
For achieving the above object, silkworm protein fiber blended yarn of the present invention is silkworm chrysalis/wash/silk/cotton blended yarn, and the blending part by weight of silkworm chrysalis/wash/cotton is 50:25:25, and the line density of described blended yarn is 14.8tex.
This fabric construction having the moisture absorption pendency uvioresistant fabric provided is plain and figure weave lattice, all adopts described silkworm protein fiber blended yarn through weft yarn; The ground tissue of described plain and figure weave lattice adopts plain weave; The jacquard weave lattice of described plain and figure weave lattice adopt mock leno weave; Described plain and figure weave lattice have 60 warp thread and 60 weft yarns in a Weaving Cycle, are distributed with 2 open-work jacquard weave lattice; Warp count 433/the 10cm of described plain and figure weave lattice, weft count 236/10cm.
The spinning method of the above-mentioned silkworm protein fiber blended yarn of manufacture of the present invention comprises five processes successively, and first operation carries out opening picking to silkworm protein fiber, polyster fibre, cotton fiber respectively, and the blending part by weight of silkworm chrysalis/wash/cotton is 50:25:25; Second operation work is comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, namely carries out comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning respectively to silkworm protein fiber, polyster fibre and cotton fiber; Three process is drafting, first carries out pre-drawing respectively to silkworm protein fiber, polyster fibre, then it is mixed also to carry out three roads to silkworm protein fiber, polyster fibre and the cotton fiber without pre-drawing process after pre-drawing respectively; In mixing in doubling step, drawing frame uses anti-tangle roller; 4th road is Roving Frames; 5th road is spinning process, adopts SEILE textile in spinning process, obtains the blended woven fabric yarn that line density is 14.8tex after spinning process.
The technological parameter of the spinning process of employing SEILE textile is: front roller speed 178r/min, back zone drafting multiple 1.21, twist factor 390, roller gauge 18 × 31mm, horn mouth 3.5 × 2.5mm, collector 3.0mm, roller is middle hardness roller, steel traveler uses FO9/0, speed of a motor vehicle 180r/min, ingot speed 14454r/min.
The production technology utilizing described spinning method to manufacture described moisture absorption pendency uvioresistant fabric provided by the invention is: weave after having spinned, weaving process comprises winding procedure, warping process, sizing operation successively, passes operation and weaving process; The slurry formula adopted in sizing operation is: in the mixing cirtern of diameter 1 meter, add 37.5 kilograms of PVA-1799,12.5 kilograms of CD-747,62.5 kg of phosphoric acid esters, 20 kilograms of QL-89 and 3 kilogram SLMO-02, add water and make the pulp level in mixing cirtern reach 90 centimetres.
The technological parameter adopted in winding procedure is: S:+140% × 1.5cm, L:+40% × 20cm, T:-40% × 20cm.
The present invention has following advantage:
1. silkworm protein fiber blended yarn of the present invention comprehensively have employed pupa albumen, terylene and cotton three kinds of fibers, and its proportioning and line density can give full play to the advantage of each fiber, weaken the defect existed separately; Utilize silkworm protein fiber blended yarn of the present invention can produce moisture absorption pendency uvioresistant fabric.
2. moisture absorption of the present invention pendency uvioresistant fabric have employed plain and figure weave lattice tissue organizing in cooperation.Ground tissue adopts plain weave more closely, and ABRASION RESISTANCE is good, and jacquard weave lattice adopt mock leno weave, produce natural open-work effect, the moisture absorbing and sweat releasing ability of enhanced products.Dexterously by two kinds of tissue associatings in design, make graceful fancy cage work.Its novel appearance is aughty, has both met requirement attractive in appearance, and plain weave meets cloth abrasion, durable requirement simultaneously, and mock leno weave makes the moisture-inhibiting of fabric, gas permeability strengthens.
3. for the feature that silkworm protein fiber is powerful low, SEILE textile technology is adopted when spinning, be spun into yarn is made to have the structure of similar stock yarn, powerful for raising, promote blended yarn fineness and intensity, improve bar do, reduce slubbing, details and filoplume, and there is obviously effect the aspect such as weavability improving yarn, significantly improve yarn quality class, embody the wearability of fabric better, and alleviate the pressure (normally taking measures to reduce filoplume etc. when sizing in prior art) of later process.The present invention utilizes SEILE textile technology to reduce filoplume, slubbing, details etc. when spinning, and make institute's yarn strength high, bar makes a good job of, any surface finish, compared with prior art belongs to process on source, not only better effects if, also saves cost simultaneously.
4. moisture absorption pendency uvioresistant fabric of the present invention has 60 warp thread and 60 weft yarns in a Weaving Cycle, be distributed with 2 open-work jacquard weave lattice, make this fabric with plain weave and mock leno weave for elementary organization, two kinds of tissues alternately configuration make graceful fancy cage work.Its plain weave meets cloth abrasion, durable requirement, and mock leno weave makes the moisture-inhibiting of fabric, gas permeability strengthens.
5. moisture absorption pendency uvioresistant fabric of the present invention passes through the design of tissue and suitable process of manufacture, can reach quality light and soft, smooth comfortable, moisture absorbing and sweat releasing, uvioresistant, the resultant effect of outward appearance unique and beautiful.Whole producing process set practicality, functional, to be ornamentally integrated, technological process is simultaneously short, and common production equipment can be produced, and processing cost is low, less energy consumption.
6. when pre-drawing and drafting, drawing frame uses anti-tangle roller, can increase rubber roll antistatic property.
7. silkworm protein fiber and polyster fibre mixed and front first through together with pre-drawing operation, then through three roads mixed also (i.e. mixing in doubling step), the uniformity of three kinds of fibers after blending can be improved.
8. the concrete technology parameter of spinning process makes SEILE textile technology can be used in spinning process well.
Moisture absorption provided by the invention pendency uvioresistant fabric has the fabric of the performances such as good moisture absorption, pendency, uvioresistant, comfortable, health concurrently, make use of the premium properties of pupa albumen staple fibre, overcomes again the deficiency of pupa albumen staple fibre simultaneously.Moisture absorption pendency uvioresistant fabric outward appearance unique and beautiful of the present invention, washability is strong; Production process one-shot forming, the cost-saving and energy, added value is high.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the looming draft of moisture absorption of the present invention pendency uvioresistant fabric.
Detailed description of the invention
The invention discloses a kind of silkworm protein fiber blended yarn, described silkworm protein fiber blended yarn is silkworm chrysalis/wash/silk/cotton blended yarn, the blending part by weight of silkworm chrysalis/wash/cotton is 50:25:25, and the line density of described blended yarn is that 14.8tex(tex specifically refers to the weight grams of the yarn of 1000 meters long when official regain).
The invention also discloses the spinning method of above-mentioned silkworm protein fiber blended yarn, the method comprises five processes successively, and first operation carries out opening picking to silkworm chrysalis/wash/cotton respectively, and the blending part by weight of silkworm chrysalis/wash/cotton is 50:25:25;
Second operation work comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, namely carries out comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning respectively to silkworm protein fiber, polyster fibre and cotton fiber.The technological principle of " low velocity, gently hinder fiber quantitatively, less, to reclaim more, suitable tension force " is taked during comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning.
Three process is drafting, first carries out pre-drawing respectively to silkworm protein fiber, polyster fibre, then it is mixed also to carry out three roads to silkworm protein fiber, polyster fibre and the cotton fiber without pre-drawing process after pre-drawing respectively; When pre-drawing and drafting, drawing frame uses anti-tangle roller.
4th road is Roving Frames.The back area draft that Roving Frames suitably amplifies rove spaces, and is beneficial to reduce drafting force, reduces slubbing quantity and improves resultant yarn strand.Under the prerequisite of spun yarn not harmful drafting, roving twist should be suitably bigger than normal, can improve the inherent quality of rove like this, be conducive to spinning-drafting.The suitable suitable control less than normal of rove back zone drafting multiple, proparea drafting multiple should be suitably bigger than normal, to ensure that rove bar solid carbon dioxide is put down.
5th road is spinning process, adopts SEILE textile in spinning process, obtains the blended woven fabric yarn (i.e. silkworm protein fiber blended yarn) that line density is 14.8tex after spinning process.The technological parameter of the spinning process of employing SEILE textile is: front roller speed 178r/min(rev/min), back zone drafting multiple 1.21, twist factor 390, roller gauge 18 × 31mm, horn mouth 3.5 × 2.5mm, collector 3.0mm, roller is middle hardness roller, steel traveler uses FO9/0, speed of a motor vehicle 180r/min, ingot speed 14454r/min.
The technological principle of spinning process is: suitably strengthen back zone drafting multiple, reduces nip gauge, is conducive to improving bar evenness; The suitable reduction speed of a motor vehicle, can reduce end breakage rate.By heavily pressurizeing and roller gauge suitably bigger than normal, can drafting force be balanced, make it to adapt with grasping force, guarantee fiber stable motion in drafting process, improve the flat object of bar solid carbon dioxide to reach.
As shown in Figure 1, the invention also discloses a kind of moisture absorption pendency uvioresistant fabric using above-mentioned silkworm protein fiber blended yarn, the fabric construction of this fabric is plain and figure weave lattice, all adopts described silkworm protein fiber blended yarn through weft yarn.The ground tissue of described plain and figure weave lattice adopts plain weave.The jacquard weave lattice of described plain and figure weave lattice adopt mock leno weave.Warp count 433/the 10cm of described plain and figure weave lattice, weft count 236/10cm.Described plain and figure weave lattice have 60 warp thread and 60 weft yarns in a Weaving Cycle, are distributed with 2 open-work jacquard weave lattice.The quality of the every square meter of moisture absorption pendency uvioresistant shell fabric of the present invention is 123.3 grams.
The invention also discloses the production technology of above-mentioned moisture absorption pendency uvioresistant fabric, comprise spinning method and weaving process by production sequence.
Spinning method is identical with the spinning method of above-mentioned silkworm protein fiber blended yarn, repeats no more herein.
Weave after having spinned, weaving process comprises winding procedure, warping process, sizing operation successively, passes operation and weaving process.
The technological parameter adopted in winding procedure is: S(and short slub) :+140% × 1.5cm, L(and long slubbing) :+40% × 20cm, T(and details) :-40% × 20cm.
Winding procedure points for attention: adopt small tension receiving coil, jogging speed technique.The suitable reduction speed of a motor vehicle, reduces yarn tension, prevents the dry deterioration of bar and cotton knot from increasing, require that doff passage is bright and clean, adopt air splicer, and the moment pays close attention to joint quality.
Warping process points for attention: warping process tension force wants suitable grasp less than normal, adopt arc tension scheme, and the warping speed of a motor vehicle is too not high, warp beam or beam winding density not too big, reel smooth, soft or hard degree is consistent, avoid yarn elongation excessive, affect its elasticity and brute force.
The slurry formula adopted in sizing operation is:
In the mixing cirtern of diameter 1 meter, add 37.5 kilograms of PVA-1799(and polyvinyl alcohol), 12.5 kilograms of CD-747(and starch), the acid of 62.5 kg of phosphoric acid esters (i.e. converted starch), 20 kilograms of QL-89(and liquid propene) and 3 kilograms of SLMO-02(and wax disk(-sc)), add water and make the pulp level in mixing cirtern reach 90 centimetres.
Pass operation and adopt 12 pages of heald frames, wear with rear 6 pages of segmentations are suitable for first 6 pages, i.e. (123456) × 5+(789101112) × 5.
Weaving process points for attention: adopt little opening, the lower back rest, larger warp tension to weave.
Above-mentioned moisture absorption pendency uvioresistant fabric is carried out performance testing and analysis (testing according to corresponding GB and industry standard), adopts the PTT fabric of close specification as a comparison simultaneously.Specification and the numbering of tested fabric refer to table 1.
Table 1
Note: PTT and elasticity terylene.
Needed for measuring, instrument and instrument have: fabric thickness instrument, fabric air-permeability amount instrument, moisture-inhibiting experimental box, capillary effect analyzer, fabric fall analyzer and fabric ultraviolet protection instrument (being this area normal experiment device).
Experimental procedure is as follows:
1) gas permeability test: the method for testing of fabric breathability is by GB GB/T5453-1997 " mensuration of textile fabric gas permeability ".Every block sample selects 10 place's different parts to measure, fabric experiment area 20cm2, and fabric pressure drop is 100Pa(Pascal), measure the air flow rate perpendicular through the given area of sample in certain hour, calculate air penetrability.Gas permeability test result is as shown in table 2.
Table 2 unit: mm/s
2) poisture-penetrability test: the method for testing of fabric moisture-penetrability is by GB GB/T12704.1-2009 " textile fabric poisture-penetrability test method part 1: moisture absorption method ".Adopt moisture vapor transmission cup moisture absorption method, filling hygroscopic agent and sealing the closed environment being placed in set point of temperature and humidity with the moisture vapor transmission cup of fabric sample, the change calculations according to moisture vapor transmission cup in certain hour (comprising sample and hygroscopic agent) weight goes out vapor transfer rate.Every block sample cuts three pieces at diverse location, then asks its mean value.Poisture-penetrability test result is as table 3.
Table 3 unit: g/m2h
Note: WVT-rate of perviousness, unit is a gram every square metre hour [g/ (m
2h)]; G
1weight/g before the moisture absorption of-assembly; G
2weight/g after the moisture absorption of-assembly.
3) wet guilding test: the method for testing of fabric wetness guiding performance is by industry standard FZ/T01071-2008 " textiles capillary effect test method ".Cutting of sample is apart from selvedge 1/10th fabric width place, respectively longitudinally with horizontal cutting three pieces of samples, sample does not have major defect.Long 30 ㎝ of sample, are widely not less than 2.5 ㎝.Fabric wetness guiding test result is as shown in table 4.
Table 4 unit: cm
4) drapability test: the method for testing of fabric fall is by industry standard FZ/T01345-1996 " textile fabric drapability test method ".It is 240mm circular specimen that every block fabric gets 1 piece of diameter, and the heart opens the aperture that a diameter is 4mm in the sample.Sample warp-wise, broadwise and respectively test once with the both direction that warp-wise and broadwise are 45 ° of angles.Be placed in by circular specimen between circular clamp dish, irradiate, obtain sample perspective view with the parallel rays vertical with horizontal direction, the projected area of sample hanging portion asked by tracing designs and the percentage of the ratio of original area, be suspended coefficient.Drapability test result is as shown in table 5.
Table 5
5) the ultraviolet test of fabric: the method for testing of fabric fall is by GB GB/T18830-2009 " evaluation of ultraviolet resistance of fabric ".The important parameter evaluating fabric W protection is Ultraviolet Protection Factor UPF, and this coefficient is used for weighing ultra-violet radiation to the extent of injury of human body.After UPF value refers to that certain shielding is used, ultra-violet radiation make skin reach a certain damage (as erythema, eye injury, even carcinogenic etc.) threshold dose required time value and without the ratio of time value reaching same extent of injury during shielding.By this standard test, as the UPF ﹥ 40 of sample, and during UPA ﹤ 5%, can be described as " antiultraviolet product ".The UV resistance performance test results of fabric is in table 6.
Table 6
By respective standard, gas permeability, poisture-penetrability, pendency, uvioresistant test are carried out to moisture absorption pendency uvioresistant fabric of the present invention above.Experimental result shows: the moisture absorption of moisture absorption of the present invention, pendency and uvioresistant fabric, gas permeability, poisture-penetrability and uvioresistant performance are all good, all meet or exceed standard-required level.